Where to buy 5 year rubber replacement kit

Hi Dan,

Part of the problem will be not all planes and engine setups are the same. There is some items that are the same, but others aren't. For instance hose lengths or preformed hoses, ect...

Roger Lee wrote:

Hi Dan,

Part of the problem will be not all planes and engine setups are the same. There is some items that are the same, but others aren't. For instance hose lengths or preformed hoses, ect...

Thanks Roger!

I will just order parts you list and then go to Kitfox and get the oil lines and coolant lines from them.

Dan

I just purchase the Rotax specific stuff (carburettor, manifold and one bent coolant top hose) from Rotax distributor.

My oil hose is still Gates but classed as hydraulic, so from a hydraulic repair shop.

My fuel & coolant are Gates from the automotive store

Fuel:

Gates Barricade EFI (also known as MPI) this is overkill for pressure rating but has slightly better temperature & permeability. This is compared with the Barricade Carburation Hose, which also meet the Rotax specifications. Comes in a range of ID's - there will be one to suit your application. 

Coolant:

For preformed/bent hose, checked out the Gates radiator hose catalogue - If you stick with relatively small capacity engined cars, you are more likely to come up with 25mm ID hoses.

Alternatively, there is a molded 90 degree bend, in diffrent "Arm"  length options

• PN 03-0010 ID 25.4mm, Arm 1 125mm, Arm 2 125mm  
• PN 03-0011 ID 25.4mm, Arm 1 300mm,  Arm 2 300mm 

Multi Fit Coolant Hose with two bends, a 135 & 90 degree

• PN01-007 ID 25mm Length 550 

Then there are 25 mm connectors

• Straight PN28606 
• Elbow PN28626
• Tee PN28638 

Oil Hose:

Gates GTH hose from hydraulic supply repair shops. I use 8GTH which has an ID 12.7mm for the 13mm fittings.

Fitting:

Be sure to get the right size (ID), Slightly small is better than slightly large/loose. Well fitted hoses should not require a clamp to seal.

Cut carefully (I prefer to cut, so installed length is covering the whole length of the spigot/barb at each end. For hoses going between moving engine and fixed frame/firewall etc be sure to leave enough "slack" to accommodate movement without stressing the hose and fittings.

Use a hose cutter for nice 90 degree clean cuts.

Blow through with compressed air before installation.

Support hoses against movement & protect from abrasion & heat.

Clamps:

I use spring band clamps on pretty much everything. If using screwed clamps go for fuel injected ones with an internal protective band and rounded edges. 

Clamps should be placed close to the swelling/barb on the spigot, so as to prevent the hose moving/pulling off.

hose length from water pump to cylinders:

from cylinders to expansion tank:

The 17mm coolant hose that's on top and under each set of cylinders is specific to Rotax. There is NO USA equivalent. The 17mm hose is sold in meter (39") lengths. Depending on the engine setup you may need 2 meters and or a little more so then you need to buy 3 meters. AS you pull off each 17mm hose then use it to measure and cut to length off the longer meter hose. Easy to do. Use a sharp cutting blade and not some serrated blade device like scissors or the such. using a sharp straight blade is more important for fuel lines to help prevent debris.

https://www.rotax-owner.com/en/rotax-blog/item/21-rotax-5-year-rubber-replacement-the-installation-considerations