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Rotax 503 Back in service

in 2 Stroke Technical Questions 12 years ago
Hello everyone,


I am very new to ultralight flying, I fly cessna's and pipers, but want to experience the ultra light and feel the difference.
I just bought a Phantom X-1 with engine and prop. The previous owner did not run the engine for at least 3 years.
The engine has been replaced and the one I have has 190 hours on it. it has dual carbs and dual ignition, and a 3 blade prop.

What do you guys recommend me to do first before I crank it up? is there any procedure for briging it back into service? I am not sure if the previous owner followed the proper storage instruction as recommended by Rotax.
I am a DIY person, and have worked on car engines and electrical systems, so with a little guidance I should be able to get things done.
Please let me know if you need more info.
thanks.
Zack

  • Re: Rotax 503 Back in service

    by » 12 years ago

    So the engine that had not run for 3 years has been replaced...is that what yor saying ???

    If the replacement engine has been run fairly recently I would just make sure the carb bowls are clean fill them with fresh fuel and the tank if that has had old fuel in it,

    There is a chance that the fuel sys has crud coating the tank and lines so frequent filter cleaning maybe req for a while...E10 fuel tends to was this crud off,

    Clean the fuel filter....and if it where me I would run it on pre mix fuel rather than injected oil if it had that sys till your happy the injection is ok,

    Prob a good idea to re-new the fuel lines as well,

    The manual does not mention any special running req for starting after its had preservation treatment...

    But if your not used to starting a 503 give it full choke and NO throttle till it fires...the let it run at the lowest RPM that it will run smoothly at...should be around 2500rpm,

    The manuals are all available free to download....prob from this web site as well,

    If your not used to running the small Rotax engines....never be in a hurry to go to full take off power...give the motor plenty of time to get FULLY warm first...I give mine 10 mins with the first 2 at min smooth rpm...its just to prevent the cold engine seizing...just a bit different to a 4 stroke,

    Decide what oil you are going to use and stick to it....Rotax recommends semi synthetic 2 stroke oil these days

    I'm sure others will give you advice as well.

    Nick.
    Thank you said by: Zack El
      
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  • Re: Rotax 503 Back in service

    by » 12 years ago

    thanks Nick for the great reply.

    The engine that I bought with the plane did not run for the last 3 years aprox., it has about 190 hours on it.
    I turned the prop a couple of times (im not sure if that was good to do), it moved freely and the compression was good.

    Definetly going to change the gas lines, they look old and dry. I opened the carb bowls and they looked pretty dirty, the gas smelled wierdand had some deposits/sludge around the filter, maybe because it is old.
      
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  • Re: Rotax 503 Back in service

    by » 12 years ago

    Mmmmmm 3 years and not used is not good....the problem is corrosion on bearing surfaces and possibly crank seals deteriorating if the engine was not inhibited,

    I not 100% but I seem to remember that the 503 is not as prone to this as the likes of the 582,

    Of course the best thing to do would be have the motor stripped and inspected.

    Nick.
      
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  • Re: Rotax 503 Back in service

    by » 12 years ago

    Thanks Nick,

    I will disessemble the engine and gear box (type B), and inspect all the parts for rust.

    Other than ordering new gasket set and sparkplugs, do you think I should change the piston rings too? the engine has 190 hours sice new.
    What I am trying to ask is, What things should be changed when the engine is taken apart (preventive and mandatory).

    Thanks,
    Zack
      
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  • Re: Rotax 503 Back in service

    by » 12 years ago

    If your going to strip it remember some special tools are req..for pulling the flywheel... and if its a fan cooled..you need a tool to lock the fan....the tool to remove the main drive gear on the end of the crank...on second thoughts you may not need that ...I cant remember if the box will come off with the gear on or not....and there is a tool called a fixation pin to lock the crank if you need to pull the main drive gear off the crank...dont use it for anything else or you can twist the rank or pin,


    The 2 seals either end of the crank....the special sealant for both crank case halfs (no gasket)...a gearbox gasket...prob the o rings for the crank to stop it rotating....manifold gaskets...head gasket sealing rings...and some ep140 for the gearbox,

    Your piston rings should fingers crossed be ok...dont break them they are very expensive...but you will prob need to de-coke the pistons/heads...a tool is req to fit the small ends bearing back into the pistons as well,

    I have prob forgot some things....CPS do a very good DVD all about stripping and re-building the 503,

    Even thought they are a comparatively simple engine there are some things to learn if you have not worked on them before,

    It may work out cheaper to get a good shop to inspect it for you,

    Come on guys what else is needed,

    What kind of environment was the engine stored in ???

    Nick.
    Thank you said by: Zack El
      
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