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Hi all, I bought a chinook plus 2 that was built between 2002-2005. The build was never finished. In 2005, the plane was brought to a local airport and left outside in our canadian weather until spring 2014. All ports and holes had been sealed and the engine was mounted inverted. It is a blue head 582. Because the build was never finished, the engine had never been broken in. Actually, it had never seen gas. I took the head off and looked at the cylinder and pistons. They looked absolutely brand new. I also took a boroscope through the carb ports to have a look at the crankcase and crankshaft. Everything looked brand new and i couldnt see any corosion. All parts were still smeared in the rotax factory grease. When i took the plugs out, only a bit of oil came out. I was told that because the engine had never seen heat, the factory corosion protection did the job for 9 years. Now, I got the engine back on the plane, cleaned the carbs and she fired right up.

With the extensive experience on this site, would anybody have concerns with this old/new engine, any parts that they would replace unconditionally based on the 9 years. Aside from a bit of surface rust on the gearbox plate, i could not find any corosion. The engine still looks new.


it is now sitting at 1.3 hours after the break-in and aside from poor liquid cooling during static runs (it gets to 180f in about 20 min then i have to bring it back down to 2000-3000 for a few minutes to cool it down) EGT's are around 930-1050 through the range and the CHT's sit around 250-300f. It has the E gearbox at 2.62:1 and a GSC 3-blades 68" ground ajustable prop.

i will need to retorque the head and exhaust manifold.... what else would you check, replace?

The prop was never mounted until 3 weeks ago.

please voice any concerns you would have with that engine or anything else. I am new to ultralights and DC rotax's.

Tobie
  • Re: weathered 582 maintenance.

    by » 10 years ago


    With its history I would feel better if it were mine with a full strip inspection of bearing and re-seal with new crank seals just for piece of mind,

    Could you see the needle rollers in the crank or piston pins or roller bearing for that matter...slight bit of unseen corrosion could have disastrous results,

    I think I would give all rubber parts a very good look at,

    What kind of static RPM was it making WOT.

    Nick.

  • Re: weathered 582 maintenance.

    by » 10 years ago


    i followed GSC recs for prop pitch. That gave me about 7.5 deg with the tool and about 10 deg at the tip. It hits 6490rpm-6510rpm at WOT and the tail comes off the ground (well secured, of course) at around 5200. I will bring the pitch back to about 8.25 on the tool, that should give me about 6250 static. Cruise on this airplane is around 65-80 mph and best climb/glide is around 55.

    when i took the boroscope in there, i could see grease everywhere. Bearings, crank, connecting rods were all covered in grease, almost as if the whole inside of the engine had been sprayed . It had a thin, unbroken layer everywhere i could see. When i took the head off, i could still see greasy fingerprints on the pistons from when it was assembled and the thin grease layer on top of the prints. Honestly, with the price i paid for the whole plane, i expected the engine to be ruined, but the more i looked at it, the more it looked like i had just taken it out the shipping crate.

    when i compression tested the crankcase, it held 4 psi for 12 hours... i couldnt put more pressure because my sealing rig couldnt hold more. Should i try to compression test it higher? What tool should i use to seal off carb,and exhaust ports? My rig was basically a few layers of plastic film and rubber bands for the carb ports and a small rubber sheet with a block of wood for the exhaust ports. I used a good water pressure gauge (0-25lbs) on the pulse nipple and a bicycle pump to send air in. Wouldnt that be a good indication of good crank seals ?

    What rubber parts would you be most concerned with?

    I primed and tested the rotary valve oil system, it doesnt have any coolant in there and pushes oil back in from the bottom, i primed and checked the oil injection pump, it pumps good (i ran the engine first 20 minutes with 50:1 stihl oil gas mix, then when i was sure the pump was primed, switched to pure premium and it ran great for the rest of the break-in)I am using 50/50 mix dexcool coolant but rads do not get proper aiflow when the airplane is static. i have the 2 rad system from rotax.

    This engine will have to get to 5 hours before i dare to take the plane up. I also want to install a small radiator heater that i have for the winter (3500 btu) , hopefully that will help to keep the coolant temperatures in the range for the next static runs. With the hose lengths i have to install, it will add about 1 liter of coolant in the system. Would you be concerned about too much cooling? i couldnt find a rad louver kit for the dual rad system. Prone to cold shock without louvers? or can i trust the thermostat ? ideas on how to make my own louver kit ? we fly in -20c during the winter months, the dense air is worth dressing up.

    btw, my carbs are on "winter settings" with 165 main jets and the needle clip is in the third slot from the top. The local engine guy tells me locals flyers run the second slot for the summer (leaner mix)and didnt seem concerned about my "low" EGT readings based on the high OAT we had on the breakin day. (low 30's celsius) He also stated the high coolant temperature were somewhat normal in that heat on a static run.

    The only rubber parts i could see cracking were the carb slide o-rings and the rubber throttle cable retainers. I seal taped the throttle cable clips caferully and replaced the o-rings. I also put new exhaust gaskets to replace the dried-out never installed ones that came with the engine.

    Keep those tips coming.

    thanks

    tobie

  • Re: weathered 582 maintenance.

    by » 10 years ago


    Thought you may have had more advice by now Tobie,

    Come on guys what are your thoughts re this motor.

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