Getting engine to run again

When I first took a Rotax class (many, many years ago, yes I'm old, LOL) and met RW for the first time I kind of questioned why not use other oil filters or parts too. I was uneducated. (i.e. Fram, champion or tempest oil filters)  I learned right then and there that we in the field rarely have all the real time specs and information on why they use that  particular part and what happens in real life. We as owners don't have any real testing facilities or thousands of run hours. Plus when using aftermarket parts you open yourself up for liability from people like the FAA, your insurance company and a civil liability case in court when you cause injury or property damage. WHY OPEN THOSE DOORS WHEN THERE IS NO NEED TO. I personally don't use aftermarket parts.  For instance things as simple as auto oil filters many times have an oil bypass pressure of 13-15 psi where our filter is around 18-22 psi. Most here would have no idea about these things. All they want to do is save $2 on a filter. I've seen aftermarket starters that leaked oil all over because they weren't Mfg''d to spec. Rotax doesn't have all the time and money needed to test every other Mfg'd part in the world. They have millions of run hours on the parts they have and have lots of testing on their parts. They've learned over the years too and made upgrades and changes. They know these parts fit the specs and the wear they can take on an engine. 

I've seen rubber carb sockets from aftermarket people and when I pushed on the carb it fell out of the socket because it wasn't internally       re-enforced. I see people using US standard hose instead of the Rotax 17mm coolant hose. There is no US equivalent so there hose is either too small or too big. Then they can't use the constant pressure spring clamps. Then they use garbage serrated worm drive clamps from a hardware store and the list goes on.

There can be some things that are swappable like a paper air filter vs a K&N.

It's usually easier and safer to stay with OEM parts and 100% better when it comes to your liability from using aftermarket parts. This applies to owners and mechanics. Don't let your mechanic talk you into doing something not right. Not only are you liable then, but so are they. Remember an ounce of prevention is worth saving thousands of dollars out of your pocket later.

When I see an aircraft for the first time and pop the cowl off many times I can tell an A&P worked on it that has never taken a Rotax class. Plus somethings they do are completely illegal.

Don't strive to be average there are way too many of them out there, but strive to be a cut above and protect the owner, mechanic and aircraft passengers.

Be careful when choosing an oil quick drain! Ones that extend upward into the tank may hit the bottom plate which centers the big screen. Even if it initially seems to fit, pushing up to open it for draining may well crunch the screen. The screen serves as a very coarse chunk filter, but its main function is to "filter" air from the oil returning to the oil pump. A crunched one may cause major engine problems! I believe the newest tanks give more room at the bottom than my vintage 2005 one. But this combination works:

Screw TSO’d Saf-Air RM12175 adapter to the tank bottom and M12175 into that. (~$75 for both).  (Note that the Curtiss equivalents are, for Rotax, not TSO’d).

For all those pilot/maintainers who don't have to install Rotax supplied hoses:

The following Gates hoses should fit your engine/application;

Radiator hoses Gates 90⁰ Moulded PN 03-0010 or 03-0011, ID 25.4mm - Available in two length. My application uses one on left side and two (joined) on the right. Both L & R require careful cutting to length.

Radiator hose joiners - where two of the above need to be joined to suit your particular engine radiator configuration:

Gates 90⁰ elbow PN 28626 OD 25.4mm 

Gates straight PN 28606 OD 25.4mm

Oil hose Gates Hydraulic 8GTA, ID 12.5mm - available as straight (cut to length).

For 17 mm (0.67") ID coolant  try  https://www.gatesaustralia.com.au/~/media/files/gates/automotive/catalogs/automotive/gates-molded-coolant-hose-id-guide_web.pdf

All above coolant  hoses a preformed, so you will have to purchase the ones that can be cut to your needs eg

Gates PN 19489, 19488, 19497, 19498, 19545

All with 0.66" ID, Meet SAE 20R3 Type EC Class D1&D2,  -40C to +135C

Note: You should independently verify that the hose you purchase, meets/exceeds Rotax specifications