Any quirks/tips on changing coolant?
in 912 / 914 Technical Questions
11 years ago
Our 912UL is due for changing coolant.
Since we have NO issues at all about running hot (ours runs so cool that we have to most of the year cover part of both the water radiatior and the oil radiator to get it to get the oil up to optimal temperatures) at first I was skeptical about the value of replacing with the newer waterless coolant Rotax seems to be recommending as desirable....but on doing some research see some advantages that could make the much higher cost of the coolant and the hassle of getting every drop of waterbased coolant out before installing it worthwhile.
For example, I note that with the waterless coolant a pressurized cap is NOT necessary.
Seems like a real advantage as lack of pressurizing the cooling system greatly reduces the risk of small leaks and seepage(such as at hose clamps) and in event of a real leak all the coolant wouldn't be instantly squirted out.
But that raises a question:
#Where would I get a non-pressurized cap?
So we're inclined to opt for the waterless coolant.
So first question is, anyone have strong opinions on the waterless coolant?
Next question is, I notice Evens makes three different waterless coolants...which one is the Rotax recommened one?
Finally, and most important:
Are there any special directions and gotchas to watch for on changing the coolant?
I ask because the dozens of times I've done that in cars it's a no-brainer:
Just find the lowest convenient point in the cooling system (98% of the time that's a drain valve at the bottom of the radiator. Drain as much old coolant as practical.
Maybe flush with a little water.
Add new coolant at correct (usually 50/50) ratio.
Run the engine to warm up. Recheck coolant level (in case some trapped air has burped out lowering the level)and top up if needed. Check level again after a short test drive.
But I've learned that with Rotax things that are simple and relatively idiot proof on the car are touchy and fraught with risks on the Rotax. (For example, on the Rotax oil change "burping" to get the last few ounces of oil out of the filter, etc, can result in unwanted air trapped in there and require a relatively complicated purging proceedure.)
SO ARE THERE ANY SPECIAL THINGS THAT ARE NOT OBVIOUS in the coolant changeout proceedure?
For example: Do I have to use the drain plug near (on?) the waterpump or block to drain, or can I just remove the lowest hose on my radiator (easier) and drain from there?
Al
Since we have NO issues at all about running hot (ours runs so cool that we have to most of the year cover part of both the water radiatior and the oil radiator to get it to get the oil up to optimal temperatures) at first I was skeptical about the value of replacing with the newer waterless coolant Rotax seems to be recommending as desirable....but on doing some research see some advantages that could make the much higher cost of the coolant and the hassle of getting every drop of waterbased coolant out before installing it worthwhile.
For example, I note that with the waterless coolant a pressurized cap is NOT necessary.
Seems like a real advantage as lack of pressurizing the cooling system greatly reduces the risk of small leaks and seepage(such as at hose clamps) and in event of a real leak all the coolant wouldn't be instantly squirted out.
But that raises a question:
#Where would I get a non-pressurized cap?
So we're inclined to opt for the waterless coolant.
So first question is, anyone have strong opinions on the waterless coolant?
Next question is, I notice Evens makes three different waterless coolants...which one is the Rotax recommened one?
Finally, and most important:
Are there any special directions and gotchas to watch for on changing the coolant?
I ask because the dozens of times I've done that in cars it's a no-brainer:
Just find the lowest convenient point in the cooling system (98% of the time that's a drain valve at the bottom of the radiator. Drain as much old coolant as practical.
Maybe flush with a little water.
Add new coolant at correct (usually 50/50) ratio.
Run the engine to warm up. Recheck coolant level (in case some trapped air has burped out lowering the level)and top up if needed. Check level again after a short test drive.
But I've learned that with Rotax things that are simple and relatively idiot proof on the car are touchy and fraught with risks on the Rotax. (For example, on the Rotax oil change "burping" to get the last few ounces of oil out of the filter, etc, can result in unwanted air trapped in there and require a relatively complicated purging proceedure.)
SO ARE THERE ANY SPECIAL THINGS THAT ARE NOT OBVIOUS in the coolant changeout proceedure?
For example: Do I have to use the drain plug near (on?) the waterpump or block to drain, or can I just remove the lowest hose on my radiator (easier) and drain from there?
Al
