fbpx

 

I was putting the plug wire back on one of the lower spark plugs and the wire just crumbled in my hand. It appears all the bottom plug wires are brittle and need replaced. Do I need to replace the upper ones too? All the wires are original, 650 hours on them.

I have gotten the old spark plug cap off and it appears reusable. The wire appears to be normal wire core spark plug wire that I can get at an auto parts house.

My question is how to get the old wire out of the ignition coil. I understand the wire twists into the coil like it does the spark plug cap, but there is tubing similar to heat shrink on the wire and over the end of the coil. The tubing seems to prevent "just untwisting" the wire from the coil. Do I cut the wire near the coil and slit the tubing to get it off? Can I reuse the tubing? If not, is it just heat shrink and what size? Do I need to purchase it from Rotax?

Can the wires be removed from the coils without taking the modules and coils off the engine?

The spark plug cap measures the proper resistance, so can it be reused? How do you measure the pull off force required? Is there a source for the caps that is less expensive than Rotax?

Thanks for your help.

Jim Butcher
Europa XS
Rotax 914 650 hours
  • Re: Spark Plug Wires

    by » 9 years ago


    Hi James

    Just a point I remember Rob making a couple of years ago on the rubber tube that covers the HT leads. It is a very important part of the ignition set up and it is not just heat shrink. I'm sure Rob will come on and explain how it works. The wires will just screw out of the coils and caps. If the caps are mechanically sound and measure good on the resistance, there is no reason why you can't reuse them.

    Mark

  • Re: Spark Plug Wires

    by » 9 years ago


    Hi James,

    I would probably change all the leads whilst doing the job. I think you need about 5m in total.

    You will probably find that the heat shrink is no longer adhered at the coil end of the wire and you can just unscrew the wire from the coil. It will be stiff to start but once it is moving it should be easy. Do not cut the old wire close to the coil as this will make removal very difficult.

    Refitting the replacement 7mm copper cored wire is more of a fiddle. You would be wise to mark the length of wire that should disappear inside the coil so that you know when it is all the way in.

    If you are replacing the heat shrink you need to find a diameter that is large enough to fit over the noses at the coil end. It is of the adhesive lined variety. You may be able to reuse the old heat shrink if it is not stuck to the old wire. The only problem that you will have is that you probably won't be able to re-seal it around the coil.

    Depending on how dexterous you are you may have to remove parts to gain better access to the coils.

    If the plug caps measure OK then I would reuse them. You can test the pull off force using a spring balance or just gauge it manually. I find that you can tell when they need replacing. Just Google NGK VD05FMH for plug caps or try eBay, it is a standard cap used on motorbikes.

    Hope this helps.

    Kevin

  • Re: Spark Plug Wires

    by » 9 years ago


    Please do not use heat shrink: the electrons have to jump the spark plug gap under high cylinder pressure (compression). If they can find an easier path they will take it. the 860990 wire cover is much thicker then heat-shrink and is an electrical insulator.
    The ignition system is no place to be "economical" (cheap)

  • Re: Spark Plug Wires

    by » 9 years ago


    I did not realise that the wire cover performed a role as an insulator. Shrink type tubing has relatively low dielectric strength and is certainly not capable of insulating the HT produced by the coil. I thought that it was used to provide additional mechanical strength and the adhesive lining would help protect/secure the joint at the coil end.

You do not have permissions to reply to this topic.