912 air baffle

Hi Marco,

sounds interesting. As long as the engine is running feeding feeding baffle and coolers with air I don't suppose you will reach 140 Celsuis. And if so you are having other problems altogether....

It seems you are seeking clear shiny elegant techi carbon looks for the baffle, right? Keep in mind that the original is made from a sort of positive model of the engines cylinder. That's why the outer visible skin looks rather raw. If you take off a new "mould" from the original baffle an d make your own from that you will end up with a carbon part with a raw surface. 
for a shine cool carbon surface, which is what we probably like to see, you need to make a negative mould. Which is possible of course but a lot of extra work. If you wanna go these extra 10 miles go for it.

I'd rather go flying ;-)

photos would be cool when done!

Hardening your epoxi part with extra temp increases the capability of the resin to withstand heat later on.

Hi , 

I made a lot of mould, to do that needs 5/6 hrs of work max, divided in two days ( one molds made of 2 parts in order to demould the parts).

Doing it with prepreg with negative mould outher surface will be perfect, also inside will be flat, of course not like external but does not create problem .

My concerning is only about the resin, with hi temp  pre preg i could reach a safe side around 180/200°, with standard one around 140°, that why my question 

Just so you know carbon fiber is conductible with electricity. If a wire becomes bare it can and will burn. I've seen it on some planes made with carbon fiber. Grounding may need to be looked at a little differently too.

Conductibility can easily be controlled by using one Glas layer as outer skin. It won't show at all but help to separate the odd bare wire from the first carbon layer. Besides, if properly laminated the carbon won't be bare but cover with resin. Practically no big worries.