Batt Amps flashing - voltage regulator problem?

Chris,

It sounds like you have two amp meters set up, one looking at the battery directly (shunt between battery and airframe buss), and one looking at the total current supplied by alternator B (shunt between voltage regulator B output and airframe buss).  Is this correct?  

Jeff-- I believe so, from looking at the wiring diagrams, but more is going on in the black boxes (MFD) than I really understand.  The diagram does show one shunt for the battery, with leads to Batt Amps Bus and Batt Amps Bat; the other has leads from the Generator to Gen Amps Bus and Gen Amps Engine.  Those 4 leads connect to the EMS.

Assuming it’s all wired correctly, the battery should not be discharging at cruise RPM. Alternator B is rated at 420 watts at 14.2 volts, which is 30 amps. Voltage is like pressure, so if your battery is at 13.9 volts and your alternator/regulator output is at 14.2, current should flow to the battery and then equalize and show 0 or +1 amps.  

I would first test the B stator (yellow leads). With engine off, unplug the connector between stator B and regulator B. When unplugging this connector, note the condition of the wires each side of the connector, they should not look like they have been hot. Test the leads going to the stator with an ohm meter, test lead to lead and all three combinations should be similar. Then test each lead to ground and there should be no continuity to ground. You could have one grounded lead and the stator would still provide partial power (single phase).  It could also be a regulator problem but they tend to either work or not work at all. Was your engine included in the recent ASB regarding the stator oil spray nozzle?  

Thanks for detailing that test, Jeff.  I'll do that.  Yes, this engine is caught by the recent oil nozzle ASB, unfortunately, so I'll be waiting to get the tool necessary to test the flow.