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  • Re: Burned voltage regulator connector, why? Fix?

    by » 9 years ago


    s/n is 4400343, engine was rebuilt inn 2010 after a hangar fire and returned to service by Lockwood. Has about 350 hours on it.

  • Re: Burned voltage regulator connector, why? Fix?

    by » 9 years ago


    I see what you mean about SB912-026, Kevin--I will look at the records and the stator installation tomorrow, to include exposing the wires. Good catch!

  • Re: Burned voltage regulator connector, why? Fix?

    by » 9 years ago


    Adam,

    Make sure you look at both service bulletins. Rotax divides them into certified and non-certified versions:

    SB-912-026
    http://docusearch.flyrotax.com/files/pdf/d00847.pdf

    SB-912-026UL
    http://docusearch.flyrotax.com/files/pdf/d00879.pdf

    The only difference is the serial number ranges, in most cases the "UL" SB is one page with the engines it pertains to, and it refers you to the SB for certified engines for the procedure to complete the SB.

    You can tell the insulation is bad by squeezing it between your thumb and index finger. If it's bad it will peel off the wire and feels like rubber cement.

    Kevin

  • Re: Burned voltage regulator connector, why? Fix?

    by » 9 years ago


    Kevin,
    That is an old SB, before your time but I was was in the thick of it. It has nothing to do with the charging cables so it is inappropriate to advise customers to follow this SB in this situation.
    Rob

  • Re: Burned voltage regulator connector, why? Fix?

    by » 9 years ago


    I should explain myself:
    The stator SB was initially issued Dec 1999 and the Austrian Airworthiness Directive was issued soon after (Austrian AD-98)
    The issue was the two red stator wires were run together in a single insulating sheath. The wires could rub together or be affected by strong solvents and make contact, shorting out and completely disabling the ignition.The engine would stop immediately.
    The fix was a huge stator recall that replaced all affected stators for free. The new stators had the red wires run in separate sheaths.
    The yellow generator wires were not changed and were never considered part of the AD or SB. It is besides the point but if the yellow wires do get shorted out the battery will not be charged, but the engine will not stop.
    You can identify the old, affected stators by gently parting the shielding around the red wires and look at the color of the sheath: if it is dull red color you have an affected stator and it must be replaced (sorry, no more free replacements)
    If the sheaths are black you have a new style stator.


    StatorAD.jpg (You do not have access to download this file.)
    StatorAD2.jpg (You do not have access to download this file.)

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