912ULS Headbolt replacement

The stud or bolt I have is threaded all the way, the ones in the diagram are not. I will keep looking.

According to the current Parts Catalog (E4,R3),  CrankCases from 06.0010 up to 14.2384 were built with fully threaded Studs.

See section 72-20-00, Page 6.

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Is that a "Paste" or a "Powder" on the threads?

Is it in the Middle or at the End?

You might just be looking at some old Locktite that has let go from heat and time and that is why the stud came out.

Put a small drop of Acetone or Lacquer Thinner on the mystery white stuff.

If it turns dark Red or Blue when wet ... its Locktite.

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There are no direction in the manuals for replacing the Studs because they were never intended to be removable.

Clean up the case end.

Put two nuts on the head end and jamb them togeter to give you something to wrench on.

Put some Red Locktite on the Case end and thread it in.

Wrench it to the bottom and give it a good healthy twist to make sure it is in all the way.

Remove the Jambed nuts from the Head end.

Its a stud!!!  ... The threads at the bottom are going to have the Same Torque that the threads at the top eventually get.

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Stud = Bolt with a Removable Head. 

Watch this video if you want to know how to do it. Some of the previous info that was posted is incorrect!

https://www.rotax-owner.com/en/videos-topmenu/expanded-video-instructions/463-new-torque

The issue being address in this thread is NOT how to torque down the heads.

The Issue is how to reinstall an individual cylinder stud/bolt back into the CrankCase.

Thanks for the replies, unreal!!!