Advice for getting the float bowl back on properly

I haven't tried this yet on the rubber-style bowl gaskets but I apply a very thin coating of white lithium grease to the green composite-style gaskets prior to their installation.  The grease acts to hold the gasket in place on the carb's bottom while you move the bowl into final position.  Also, I have found that a medium-size pair of Channellock Tongue and Groove Pliers is very useful in moving the bale wire into its final position.

Not long ago I replaced my floats since one set was over 7gram. I had same rubber o-ring type gasket.

It was difficult to line it up in the groove making sure it did not twist. To make sure it did not fall off due to gravity since I  did not take carb off, I put some dielectric silicon base grease on gasket before putting it in groove. This held it up good. Use a mirror and flash light and make sure no part of it is twisted and groove is clean. You can use a piece of metal like a coat hanger or smaller to help put it in the groove. Make sure you bend tip end of metal to an eye drop so there is no sharp point. Do not use any petroleum base grease because it might eventually eat up the rubber. Dielectric grease like you put on electrical connections to prevent corrosion bought at any auto part store will work. 

I have had no issues, hope this helps and others may have better ideas. 

AMIRKHANIAN, SHAHRAM C wrote:

Not long ago I replaced my floats since one set was over 7gram. I had same rubber o-ring type gasket.

It was difficult to line it up in the groove making sure it did not twist. To make sure it did not fall off due to gravity since I  did not take carb off, I put some dielectric silicon base grease on gasket before putting it in groove. This held it up good. Use a mirror and flash light and make sure no part of it is twisted and groove is clean. You can use a piece of metal like a coat hanger or smaller to help put it in the groove. Make sure you bend tip end of metal to an eye drop so there is no sharp point. Do not use any petroleum base grease because it might eventually eat up the rubber. Dielectric grease like you put on electrical connections to prevent corrosion bought at any auto part store will work. 

I have had no issues, hope this helps and others may have better ideas. 

Hi SHAHRAM,

Never use silicone grease around your fuel system and especially where it can get in the fuel directly. It does not mix or dissolve in the fuel and clumps up and causes blockages. I've seen this a couple of times and where the fuel system from the tanks and through the carbs had to be totally cleaned. You can use some white lithium grease to lube "O" rings as it will dissolve and turn back into an oil and just go through the system. That said you still don't glob it on just rub it on. You can rub some white lithium grease on the carb gasket and either place it on top of the bowl or press it up into it's grooved area. I agree that the rubber gaskets are harder to get in place, but a little patience works. Just make sure it's in its groove before pulling the bale in place or you will get a leak and or cut the gasket. 

A tip:

Loosen the carb rubber flange clamp screw and push the carb back out of the socket. Then you can turn the carb bottom out toward you and clear the drip tray under it. It does help.

Do you always have to replace the carb gasket after float check?

Tommy Megremis wrote:

Do you always have to replace the carb gasket after float check?

No. So long as you don't damage it or it leaks you're good.