Is this spark plug thermal paste ok

Or MGL 860-150 on Amazon. Been using it for 23 years.

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-860-150G-Silicone-Transfer/dp/B005DNQWQU/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_1?crid=GNF1YOA7GSSK&keywords=mgl+860-150&qid=1695508671&sprefix=mgl+860-15%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-1-fkmr1

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mg-chemicals/860-150G/2233046

Sure, but you posted that earlier in the thread: https://www.rotax-owner.com/en/912-914-technical-questions/9293-is-this-spark-plug-thermal-paste-ok#p33030.

In my case, I already have the CW7100 on hand, so it certainly begs the question about whether I should spend another $20. Would I be better off?

Hello Kenz

I looked up the spec of the CW7100 and it appears to have all the requirements to use in place of the factory paste.  The main thing that is needed is to conduct the temperature to the cylinder head and not have any metallic properties (no anti-seize).  Use is sparingly, just enough to coat the bottom of the plug.  I normally apply it to the plug thread starting from thread 2 or 3 from the bottom and coat the next 4 to 6 threads.  As you screw it in the paste will coat the balance.  

As a tip, there is no reason to recoat a plug when you remove it for inspection.  As long as the thread is evenly coated and not contaminated simply check your plug and reinstall.  The paste does not go bad or get hard. 

Cheers

Great advice, thanks! I cleaned each of the four plug sockets decently well, although not with solvents. I just pulled out the old plug, cleaned it with alcohol, threaded it back in, and did this about four times. Hopefully that chased away enough of the anti-seize that it's no longer an issue.

I wound up finding a tube of MG 860-150G in my old stock, and so used that. Save the $$$ CW7100 for a special occasion. I put it on like you suggest, as I think I saw Roger Lee doing in a YT video.

The spark plug for Cyl #3 had a bent electrode and bent threaded tip, probably both from the drop. It also was the only plug which was not a nice ash color, and instead looked like it might have been running too rich or improper combustion because the gap was 400um. Glad to have done the exercise, let's hope this solves the problem.