Carb Float Bowl Breather/Overflow

Another thing to consider is the float is held in place by a brass post and if they get bent slightly they will be sticking. Only 50 hours on them they shouldn’t need to come off for any service.

Sean

In the heavy manual there is a test for the float needle seating.  Be sure to do this test and see if the needle is sealing correctly on the inlet of the carburetor bowl.  (inlet needle seat) 

To answer the question left from before, the float setting being high or low will affect the fuel flow a bit, from rich to lean depending on which side of the spec you are on.  from the gasket channel 10.5mm  is measured from the surface to the float arm flat area where the pin rides.....But there is an easier way.  Invert the carb without the floats and leave the arm attached.  The flat area where the pin rides for the floats must be exactly parallel with the gasket surface, this is exactly the right spot and you will have your correct measurement.  Your eyes will see the difference very fast when you look for parallel. 

To adjust simply hold the arm so there is no pressure on the needle to seat, slightly off is great.  Now use a very small screwdriver and bend the tab that holds the float pin up or down to change the float level till you get the arm parallel to the bowl gasket surface.  

hope that helps...if you need some pictures I am sure we can find some, let us know.  I took a snippet of a 2 stroke, same spec and way you adjust floats, on how to bend the tab. 

Cheers

I use a millimeter ruler, turn the carb upside down, place the ruler on the gasket edge and slide it over to the brass float armature. At the top of the flat spot on the armature  it should measure 10.5mm. As Rotax Wizard shows that if you need to tweak it up or down just slightly bend the armature  tab to achieve the correct measurement.

Hi RW,

Its probably a language thing, like boot/trunk, bonnet/hood, ground/earth, etc.

Seems to me a picture or two would pretty much clear up any tendency to (my) confusion.

I understand the tab bending - if required, to set float arm and therefore float height.

I am up to speed with the parts/components of the carb.

I understand about your "easier way." - just checked one carb  by your sighting technique - have way over adjusted down (low float level). (This hasn't stopped the small fuel leak).

I would prefer to use my callipers, measuring from/to a known point. 

Back to language/terminology - Rotax calls the brass float arms "float suspension brackets" -  for clarity/dealing with those of us who don't speak US English, it might be best to stick as far as practical to Rotax English?

"A" is the adjustment tab