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  • Re: Thermo-Bob Coolant Thermostat

    by » 10 years ago


    FWIW, I have a 912s in a Kitfox 7. The oil cooler system has a thermostat, the coolant system does not. The oil cooler is mounted right in front of the coolant radiator. For winter flying I just put a 2" strip of aluminum tape clear across the oil cooler, which also blocks air flow to the radiator. I just did this two weeks ago and got a temperature comparison: BEFORE-oil temp in 5000 rpm cruise was 175 F. AFTER-oil temp was 225 F. In both cases the cyl head/coolant temp was about 5 degrees below the oil temp. A pretty simple way to get temps up into a good operating range.

    Warm-up time to 120 F after cold start at 40 F is about 5-7 minutes.

  • Re: Thermo-Bob Coolant Thermostat

    by » 10 years ago


    Roger, Rob, Mike and all,
    You have convinced me. After thinking about what all of you are saying, I do believe it is an unacceptable critical reduction in reliability to Rotax 912 aircraft engines to add (“currently available”) thermostats to either oil or coolant systems. The problem, as you put it, is that if the thermostats fail to send adequate hot liquid to a cooler, destructive high temperatures will occur.

    I also want to thank everyone who is running thermostats for your responses as well. Very helpful.

    Just for discussion:

    Perhaps on the coolant side this might not do damage if quickly recognized and countered by reduction to very low power until an airport can be reached. I say this but I don’t know if this is the case, if that is what would happen, e.g. if the ThermoBob were to only route all coolant via the 3/8” bypass while blocking off the cooler. The resultant hot coolant might raise pressure enough to blow by the pressure cap even at low power settings until it becomes a case of no coolant, which Rotax seems able to handle even if it is not something we want to have happen.

    But on the oil side, both Thermostasis and PermaCool continue to send some oil through the cooler in all configurations and temperatures (and failure modes). The questions here might be: is this enough cooling to proceed on reduced power (as with the loss of coolant) to an airport, and how quickly and how high would oil temperatures rise with 90% reduction of oil going through the heat exchanger?

    Wouldn’t our engines benefit from truly reliable (or fail-safe – which needs to be defined based on our Rotax engine needs) thermostats. I do not know what is inside the Thermostasis, but I do know an automotive waxstat is inside the PermaCool as well as the Thermo-Bob. I suspect all coolant thermostats have a waxstats. I have not seen very many automotive thermostats fail, but my stock Permacool waxstat failed. Did I make this happen by placing the room temperature 170 degree waxstat directly into boiling water? My oil in summer will get hotter than 212, but it would do so more gradually than when I tossed that room temperature waxstat into the boiling water.

    In absence of knowing if any ‘truly reliable (or fail-safe)’ thermostats exist, I think it is better to tape over heat exchangers. What I would like to know is what is happening inside the engine when running at too-cold take-off power or during sustained too-cold cruise – and this goes for both coolant and oil. I would also like to know how many people are running thermostats and what have been their experiences; how many have had failures and what happened.

    In summary, after all the time I spent researching thermostats, and the money spent on parts and miscellaneous fittings and new hoses, as well as effort to cut into lines and neatly configure and locate automatic temperature controls on my Rotax (and being proud of the results), I am now concluding that I need to tear all that crap off and go to taping over heat exchangers. Oh well. What is safest = what is best.

    Thanks for the help,
    Dennis Urban

  • Re: Thermo-Bob Coolant Thermostat

    by » 10 years ago


    I am somewhat surprised at everyone's assumption that wax bulb type thermostats fail closed. My experience with cars is that when they fail, the coolant emperature stays low as if there was no thermostat in the system. I guess it depends upon how the thermostic valve is designed. I would venture to say that the valve is designed so that failure routes full coolant flow thru the cooler. It is the only design method that makes any sense to me. Another point; I believe the Kitfox factory installs an oil thermostat in all their factory built SLSA's, but not a water thermostat.

  • Re: Thermo-Bob Coolant Thermostat

    by » 10 years ago


    James
    Motorad (makers of thermostats) seem to think that most thermostats fail in the closed (or by-passed) position.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YIJx-ks2wN0
    That being said this is obviously an advert for their system so it may be biased.

    Most commercially available thermostats work on the principle that the wax pellet expands with temperature and opens a valve to the radiator or closes a valve to the by-pass (or both) and the failure mode is usually the wax leaking out of its container leaving the spring to push the valve(s) into their cold position which is radiator shut off and by-pass (if there is one ) open.

    http://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/images/how_it_works/Water_Cooling/Water_Cooling_8.jpg

    I know of many Rotax installations in Europe with the Permacool oil thermostats installed by the aircraft manufacturer, but that doesn't mean it's a good idea. In my opinion many of them just copy the others without any serious engineering of what they’re doing.
    Permacool say
    “At temperatures below 180°F the valve is open, with 90% of the oil by-passing the cooler. The remaining 10% of the oil flows through the cooler, “
    That means that if the thermostat fails in the by-pass position at least 10% of the flow is still going through the cooler so provided you weren’t pushing the engine that might get you home or to a safe landing spot. That’s probably similar to Rob’s scenario where you lose all the coolant and can keep flying at low power settings. I suppose a lot would depend on how big your oil cooler was and the OAT.

    Thermostasis seem to have studied the Rotax installation a bit more than Permacool

    http://thermostasis.com/includes/templates/thermostasis/downloads/thermostasis-faq.pdf

    There’s also some interesting info here:

    http://thermostasis.com/includes/templates/thermostasis/downloads/troubleshooting-rotax.pdf

    and that could be reassuring although I haven’t found any figures about how much oil continues to flow through the cooler when the thermostat fails.
    Also they raise an important point that I don’t think we”ve talked about here and that is that the oil temperature we measure on the Rotax is the lowest temperature in the oil circuit, it is the temperature after the cooler and before the oil goes into the engine. The oil reservoir is probably nearly the hottest part of the oil circuit and that is where we want the water in the oil to boil off. So we don’t have to see 100°C (212°F) on the gauge in the cockpit. The problem is nobody has an oil reservoir gauge and I don’t know if anybody has ever measured the oil temperature increase as it flows through the engine.

    Blanking off the oil and water coolant radiator is the tried and tested method, but on a very cold day you still have to wait for ages before the engine manages to heat up all the oil and water in both circuits. If you operate from a large airfield and know you will spend 10 minutes or more taxying around and waiting then that’s not a big deal, you’ve got the time, but if (like me) your hanger is 100 yards from the runway and there’s never anybody else in the circuit it’s a real pain to sit there burning fuel just to heat up the oil, not to mention it’s often bl..dy cold just sitting there in an open cockpit. Also I’ve found that if I’m just doing circuits on a cold day the oil never gets above 70° even with the oil rad blanked off completely.
    The down side of blanking the rad off is that on a cold morning doing circuits on my own the oil won’t be hot enough and in the afternoon when the sun gets up and I take a heavy passenger up for a low level flight the temperature gets too high because I’ve forgotten (yes it happens) to take some of the tape off the radiator.

    There doesn’t seem to be an ideal solution on the market but overall I’d say the thermostasis seems to be the supplier who has considered the problem the most and I’d say it, or the Permacool, was a pretty low risk installation. Added to that there are a lot of Permacool installations in Europe and even though that doesn’t mean it’s a good idea we are not hearing of many (any??) failures.

    I’m still looking into the Silent Hectik by-pass thermostat/heat exchanger solution and I've been trying to get some information from Silent Hectic in Germany and their sales organisation in France, it's like pulling teeth trying to get serious engineering info and all you get is "I assure you it works well, don't worry". When I asked about the failure mode of the thermostat the answer was "we buy very high quality thermostats from Japan and they don't fail". I’ve asked for photos of installations with 912/914s and no reply. When I say that many of these suppliers don’t really know what they’re doing this is a typical example of the sales hype that we have to deal with.
    I think their solution has merit for what I want to do (that’s not necessarily a good idea for others to do) but I need to get more info to really engineer the solution.

    Mike G

    Thank you said by: RotaxOwner Admin

  • Re: Thermo-Bob Coolant Thermostat

    by » 10 years ago


    good info Mike!

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