Oil level check

Dani wrote:

Sorry, just read answer of as many as 12 revolutions, 

good golly what a pain in the ....???

 

so what If you overfill ?

12 compressions not 12 revolutions. Each compression is when it gets harder to turn and the compression is over when it suddenly gets easy to turn. The Rotax gear box for modern models has a ratio of 2.43:1 so every one revolution of the propeller the crankshaft rotates 2.43 revolutions. Sometimes it takes longer to burp especially if you turn it too fast but every now and then it won't burp at all and that's ok just check the oil with the dipstick if it still won't burp after a while.

Yes it's a pain but that's because it's a dry sump system. Wet sump doesn't make you do that but wet sump is also heavier which is why Rotax did dry sump.

Just don't overfill. Burp the engine first and check the oil so it's accurate before you assume the oil is low and add more.

Take it as Rotax Zen.

A chance to settle your mind and mentally prepare for the flight, a time to slow down...and when it takes 30 compressions your daily upper body work out...

If you do your own oil change you know that just draining the oil reservoir doesn’t get all the dirty oil out of the engine. The oil cooler and lines can hold as much as a quart of used oil. Get a fresh start by purging all dirty oil by force purging the entire system. Our new Oil System Priming & Purging Kit provides you with all the needed parts and instructions to force prime the entire oil system in just a few minutes. New engine installations or any service that requires breaking into the sealed lines and cooler system must be pressure primed before start-up. Failing to properly prime the system can result in air pockets, oil pump cavitation, and possible lifter, camshaft, or main bearing damage. Installed to the oil reservoir, shop air is used to pressurize the tank forcing oil through the entire system as you turn the prop over 30 to 60 turns.

All air is therefore purged and the system fully primed for start-up. Full oil pressure is achieved as soon as the engine is started avoiding oil pump cavitation and possible damage to expensive vital engine parts.

Step # 1 – Assembly parts as shown in photo – Use air coupler to match the shop air system you will be connecting to. Both types are provided.

Step #2 – Remove oil line from Oil Reservoir marked “In” and lower end into waste bucket on floor.

Step #3 – Use Part #135491 #8 JIC Cap supplied to cap “In” port on reservoir.

Step #4 – Remove venting hose from reservoir and install 13mm hose provided onto spigot.

Step #5 – Remove one spark plug from each cylinder to allow free rotation of engine.

Step #6 – Turn pressure regulator on slowly allowing pressure to build in oil reservoir to approximately 10-15 psi. Air will vent from around fill cap. This is normal. Regulator will keep air pressure inside reservoir forcing oil through line still connected.

Step #7 – Turn prop over quickly 30-60 times. This will turn the oil pump and move oil thru the system. Keep turning until clean oil is seen draining into bucket. Turn engine only in direction of normal rotation. Make sure you have enough oil in your reservoir so air is not allowed to reach bottom pick-up. Start procedure over if air is allowed into system.

Step # 8 – Remove pressure regulator and refit both lines to their original positions on the reservoir. Be sure to fill reservoir to top of dipstick mark when finished. Your engine is now pressure primed with oil and ready for start up. Oil pressure gauge should quickly read proper pressure.

follow the instruction, if not to understand, invite me free of costly i can come and change the oil.

Glenn Martin wrote:

Take it as Rotax Zen.

A chance to settle your mind and mentally prepare for the flight, a time to slow down...and when it takes 30 compressions your daily upper body work out...

 

 

30 compressions??  Mine usually takes six, never been more than ten.  Thirty would really make me wonder about how much actual compression you are getting...

姓, xìng wang wrote:

If you do your own oil change you know that just draining the oil reservoir doesn’t get all the dirty oil out of the engine. The oil cooler and lines can hold as much as a quart of used oil. Get a fresh start by purging all dirty oil by force purging the entire system. Our new Oil System Priming & Purging Kit provides you with all the needed parts and instructions to force prime the entire oil system in just a few minutes. New engine installations or any service that requires breaking into the sealed lines and cooler system must be pressure primed before start-up. Failing to properly prime the system can result in air pockets, oil pump cavitation, and possible lifter, camshaft, or main bearing damage. Installed to the oil reservoir, shop air is used to pressurize the tank forcing oil through the entire system as you turn the prop over 30 to 60 turns.

All air is therefore purged and the system fully primed for start-up. Full oil pressure is achieved as soon as the engine is started avoiding oil pump cavitation and possible damage to expensive vital engine parts.

Step # 1 – Assembly parts as shown in photo – Use air coupler to match the shop air system you will be connecting to. Both types are provided.

Step #2 – Remove oil line from Oil Reservoir marked “In” and lower end into waste bucket on floor.

Step #3 – Use Part #135491 #8 JIC Cap supplied to cap “In” port on reservoir.

Step #4 – Remove venting hose from reservoir and install 13mm hose provided onto spigot.

Step #5 – Remove one spark plug from each cylinder to allow free rotation of engine.

Step #6 – Turn pressure regulator on slowly allowing pressure to build in oil reservoir to approximately 10-15 psi. Air will vent from around fill cap. This is normal. Regulator will keep air pressure inside reservoir forcing oil through line still connected.

Step #7 – Turn prop over quickly 30-60 times. This will turn the oil pump and move oil thru the system. Keep turning until clean oil is seen draining into bucket. Turn engine only in direction of normal rotation. Make sure you have enough oil in your reservoir so air is not allowed to reach bottom pick-up. Start procedure over if air is allowed into system.

Step # 8 – Remove pressure regulator and refit both lines to their original positions on the reservoir. Be sure to fill reservoir to top of dipstick mark when finished. Your engine is now pressure primed with oil and ready for start up. Oil pressure gauge should quickly read proper pressure.

follow the instruction, if not to understand, invite me free of costly i can come and change the oil.

But this is about checking the oil level not purging and replacing oil.