Rough running in flight

If it is smooth on the left then there is unlikely to be a fuel problem. If adding the right causes roughness then it must firing intermittently or at the wrong time. If that is the case then the problem could be any of: SMD module, trigger coils or the generator coil. 

You can swap the connectors over to the modules and that will tell you whether it is one of them. If it is still on the same switch then take a look at the trigger coils. Make sure that they are securely mounted with the correct gap and that the tip is not damaged. You can also check their resistance at the SMD connector. After that I would measure the resistance of the generator coil. It is worth tugging on the cables whilst measuring the resistance to make sure that there isn’t an intermittent problem.

I had a minor "skipping" feeling that improved by pulling out the choke very slightly.  Really couldn't isolate to one side or another, or one ignition or another.  Sent the carbs to Lockwood for service, no problems since.  ?minor contamination of the needles

Some non ignition/fuel thoughts;

Prop balance?

Engine mounting rubbers in good condition?

Throttle cables  moving equally?

Well I have checked the bowls. Ok

checked the choke is returning (it is)

rechecked idle mixture (a little rich)

and I checked the  gap on all spark plugs. They were all at .085 (.034”) which seems too wide to me, and its cold here in souther hemisphere at the moment. So I re gapped to .06 (.024) and did ground runs. Seemed better. Will take itfor a fly and see if any improvement. Will also check carb sync.

For the NGK plugs they come out of the box at .030. The gap should be set between .023 - .027. Many like to go in the middle at .025. Setting the plugs at a max gap means it will only get wider as engine run time increases.

.034 isn't a major issue, but is a little wide. You'll have a better result at your .024 especially when it's cold outside as you stated. A carb sync is important and can cause rougher running depending on how far out of sync they are. A carb sync should be performed at every annual (on the checklist) and is a good idea to check in case something seems odd at other times. It only takes a few minutes to check once you understand what a set of gauges is telling you. A carb sync only takes me about 10-15 minutes. Most experts prefer gauges because you can diagnose with them and see things much easier than with an electronic sync device. At times the poor throttle setup in some planes make it take longer and sometimes the throttle never goes back to the same exact position when the throttle goes from idle to higher rpm. This is one reason I prefer thinner throttle cable. There is less cable friction within its sheath and the carb springs usually do a better job at returning the carb to the same position each time the throttle opens and closes. This all depends of course on the aircraft cabling setup (i.e. things like bends and twist and type of cable sheath). Some cable sheathing has a Teflon inner liner and some are just metal. Everything plays a part in the whole picture.