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  • Re: Ceramic coating of exhaust systems

    by » 12 years ago


    Just a note on header wrap and some thoughts for those that may decide to give this a try.,

    The Header Wrap Mfg's claim as much as a 70% heat reduction. I don't know if it's really that high, but how many of you would taxi in then pop the cowl and grab an exhaust pipe? :ohmy: You would only do it once and you would leave all your skin on the pipe. :pinch: Using the header wrap cloth I can grab my pipes. The heat reduction that is radiated and convective heat reduction is quite significant. It helps keep some of the heat off the wiring, hoses and stops pre-mature loss and cracking of rubber engine mounts. If your exhaust pipes are just steel I wouldn't do it because of possible carbonization and pre-mature cracked pipes. The good stainless steel pipes aren't as susceptible because of the nickle and chrome in stainless. I have had mine wrapped for 6 years without any issues and I know many others that use it as well, but it needs to be applied correctly.
    You can usually get it at automotive stores. It comes in a 50' roll for about $50 and you'll need about 40% of that. It comes in 1" and 2" wide. 2" works better and the way to go.
    When you apply it do not over wrap it too much as you can keep too much heat in. Only over wrap the edges by about 3/8", many of the warps actually have a little line on them to help you. It needs to be moist when wrapping, but do not soak it. Absolute do not over wrap EGT probes or put the probe on top of the wrap. It will cause your EGT temps to swing 100F+ degrees. I wrap up to the probe and clamp it then start again on the other side of the probe. You can secure it with a standard hose clamp at the top or bottom. You can wrap down to the muffler and under the springs and clamp it. This may help some that have a small exhaust leak at the joint and seems to help the longevity of the springs as far as breaking. (Better to correct any leaks though)
    Do not wrap the muffler itself. Some use a high temp black paint to go over the wrap to seal it, but it isn't necessary. After it is applied start the engine and it will smell like it is burning and smoke just a little. Not to worry that goes away in a few minutes. Once this is in place and cooked in it will be fragile so no tools scraping up and down its sides.
    Here are a couple of pics to look at.
    The one picture that shows the wrap under the spring isn't a pretty wrap and may be a little too over wrapped for me, but demonstrates how to wrap under the springs and include the joint.
    header_wrap_1_175.jpg (You do not have access to download this file.)
    header_wrap_2_119.jpg (You do not have access to download this file.)
    header_wrap_508.jpg (You do not have access to download this file.)

    Roger Lee
    LSRM-A & Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
    Tucson, AZ Ryan Airfield (KRYN)
    520-349-7056 Cell


    Thank you said by: YEN NIEN YU

  • Re: Ceramic coating of exhaust systems

    by » 12 years ago


    Hi Rhett,

    Looks like a nice job. Don't forget to safety wire the springs and apply the high temp silicone.

    Roger Lee
    LSRM-A & Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
    Tucson, AZ Ryan Airfield (KRYN)
    520-349-7056 Cell


  • Re: Ceramic coating of exhaust systems

    by » 12 years ago


    Copy that Roger...purchased the high temp RTV sealant today....

  • Re: Ceramic coating of exhaust systems

    by » 12 years ago


    Roger,

    How do you properly safety wire the exhaust springs? I am installing a 912s in a Kitfox 7 and they don't say anything about safety wire for the Kitfox supplied exhaust system. It uses only one spring per joint, not two.

    Also where are you putting the hi temp silicone? I did use hi temp anti-sieze on the slip joints.

    Jim

  • Re: Ceramic coating of exhaust systems

    by » 12 years ago


    James,

    I run the wire through the center of the spring and attach it to the tangs which hold the springs on each end. That holds the spring pieces in place if the spring breaks. This is especially important for pusher installations to keep the broken springs from hitting the prop.

    The hi temp silicon will prevent the spring from vibrating due to harmonics. The vibration usually wears the spring end loops and the tangs they attach to. Just run a heavy bead lengthwise along the spring from one end to the other.

    Bill.

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