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Following the seizure of my 912 UL, I replaced the engine with a new 912 UL2.

The engine started easily and ran smoothly during initial runups and dynamic propeller balancing. Yesterday I decided to make my first flight with the new engine. The Pipistrel runup check calls for checking the ignition at 3,000 RPM. Switching off the B switch I noted an RPM drop of around 150 RPM. Switching off the A switch I saw about 550-600 RPM drop. I decided not to fly.

Back at the hangar to troubleshoot, I noticed that, when ignition B was shut off, cylinders 3 and 4 showed significantly lower EGT than when both ignitions were switched on. As another test, I removed the plug wires from the upper plugs on cylinders 1 and 2. On the next check, when I switched off the B ignition, then engine stopped. This indicates to me that the coil feeding the lower plugs on 3 and 4 is not firing the plugs.

It seems to me that this coil is bad. Or, does each ignition module have separate circuitry to trigger each coil and is it possible that part of the module is bad?

Since the engine is brand new and under warranty, I should be able to get free replacement parts through Lockwood (I bought the engine from them). I'll call them in the morning and see what advice they can give.
  • Re: Faulty Coil?

    by » 10 years ago


    Hi
    I have the same problem on my 912 s and toke my electronique box
    and send back to rotech research he test with the bechtest everething is ok
    now the tech toll me verify the plug wire at the coil sometime need to be cut half inch and
    srew back in the coil ,my engine is 350 hrs .
    i dont find the problem until now ,

  • Re: Faulty Coil?

    by » 10 years ago


    Thanks for the reply. I'll try that next.

    Here's what I've done so far:

    1. Removed plug leads from A&B 1,2 upper (Note, I connected extra plugs and grounded them to avoid damaging the ignition). Engine stopped when I turned off B ignition.

    2. I borrowed an ignition module from a friend and substituted it into both A and B circuits. No change.

    3. Disconnected ignition kill wires and using jumper leads to ground them, bypassed the mag switches and the key switch. No change.

    4. Replaced ignition kill wires. No change.

    5. Swapped spark plugs front to back. No change.

    6. Used inductive timing light to find non-firing plugs. Inconclusive. Intermittent spark on plugs 3 & 4 lower.

    This all leads me to believe that I have a faulty coil. Today I will try again to verify which plug(s) is/are not firing reliably using an IR remote temperature sensor on the exhaust ports. If I can isolate a single coil as the culprit, I'll ask Lockwood to send me a new coil under warranty.

    ...but I'll try cutting a half inch off the plug wires at the coil ends first.

  • Re: Faulty Coil?

    by » 10 years ago


    Dan,

    You can measure resistively to see if the leads are not making contact with the plug caps. If you pull the plug caps off the spark plugs and measure from each one to the other one connected to that coil you should measure about 10k (5k for each plug cap). The coil resistance is negligible. The paired plugs are:

    3 top - 4 top
    4 bot - 3 bot
    1 top - 2 top
    1 bot - 2 bot

    If you flex the leads whilst making the measurements you will see if there are any breaks or bad connections.

    Kevin

  • Re: Faulty Coil?

    by » 10 years ago


    Just curious if you ever solved your issue? I am having the some scenario when switching off the B switch, the A circuit wont run the engine. Switching power leads from the stator in the 6pin plugs, moves the problem to the opposite side. The timing light test shows 4 wires with normal spark, 4 with intermittent spark, but curiously, two of the intermittent sparks are attributable to each circuit. When the faulty A switch is on, and switched off while engine running, there is a typical mag drop, even though it wont run the engine

  • Re: Faulty Coil?

    by » 10 years ago


    Hi Rex,
    You need to check for a broken, disconnected or poorly seated wire in its connector before the ignition modules not after. If all that's okay then you need to look at the back of the engine around the trigger coils and electrical components for the same.

    Roger Lee
    LSRM-A & Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
    Tucson, AZ Ryan Airfield (KRYN)
    520-349-7056 Cell


    Thank you said by: Rex Anderson

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