No need to go expensive here because it is used infrequently for an individual.get a gauge that reads from 0 to 10 - 15 psi. Then just buy some brass fitting so it can be mounted in line with the pressure side out of the pump. It's just a very temporyuse item to double check the pump pressure.
Roger Lee LSRM-A & Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC Tucson, AZ Ryan Airfield (KRYN) 520-349-7056 Cell
Thanks its been on my list of things to check for some time as I just confirmed my Facet Boost pump model & pressure rating after some research. Found that the Facet number to track down the rating is the one stamped on the metal ears where the bolt goes through, the #'s on the sticker on the housing is other info. My Facet pump # is 40106 rated 4.5 - 6 psi, the next lower model is a 40105 rated at 3 - 4.5 PSI. I never have checked fuel pressure and replaced fuel pump this spring. I don't have a return line, so it will be interesting to see the results when I check the fuel pressure. I think I was told one time that I should have a return line, but this is the way my Chinook was when I bought it and have 140 hrs on this 80hp 912.
I had read somewhere that one could plumb a return line from the pressure side of the engine mechanical pump back to the top os gascolator, it makes sense to me, as long as my Facet boost pump does not act like a check valve when not on. My fuel system on my Chinook is fed from strut mounted football tanks, then through a Facet electric boost pump ( that I use on takeoff/landing ) then the gascolator at lowest point, then engine meachanical pump after the disharge of engine pump I put in a 4 way T today which feeds both carbs and also back to top of gascolator...automotive mechanic friend thought it may not be the best if one carb needle plugged a bit and needed more pressure, but I think it should be fine...any thought, ideas ??? To run the return back to the football strut tanks would need another fuel selector valve to direct the returned fuel to the tank which is draining (otherwise I would over fill the tank not in use...I run the engine off either the right strut tank or the left, but can not both at the same time)
...It did not work, once at 7000 ft when I shut the electric boost pump off in 30 sec - 60 secs the engine would sputter, thought it would take a few times to clear the air out but I tried it a dozen times (with many farmers fields below) , I will now plumb it all the way to my strut tanks and use a left/right valve to be able to return to the same tank I suck from as to not overflow a tank not being sucked from.
I could see no air in the line after a hour long flight, when I landed.
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